Interior Wood

 
 
 
 
 
 














 

Evaluation is the first and a very important step of this process for both the owner and restorer. What condition is the wood in now, where does it need to be and how does it get there?

How much wood to refinish?

The best results follow from refinishing the complete interior wood set rather than a few more worn pieces. This approach ensures that all of the wood returns to the owner with the same quality, color, clarity and gloss and that they start life again as a renewed family of interior trim.

Occasionally, a newer car may have a piece of wood with a very specific localized problem, which can be addressed without stripping it. If it’s possible to make the repair this way, it will keep the color intact and the problem is still solved. (This happens most frequently with dealers and cars that are still under warranty).
  
The proper way to refinish factory wood is to remove the old finish, make any repairs necessary and then color or paint areas (e.g. dash cutouts) as per the factory treatment prior to the finishing process.

Can you refinish a few pieces to match the rest of the original wood?

This is a question commonly asked not only by owners but even dealers.
A brief explanation:
As a finish ages it picks up an amber color and increased opacity, which combine to mask the true color of the wood. This “patina” is not necessary unattractive but it is not the true color the veneer was originally when the car was built. When the old finish is stripped, you remove the color that the old finish contributed to the overall aged look of the wood. Refinished wood will have much greater clarity, more contrast between the light and dark elements in the grain and a new higher level of gloss. It will also appear darker because you are viewing the veneer through a new clear finish and not one with an amber tint.

One of the problems with refinishing a few pieces of interior wood trim is that the apparent color of the wood, the clarity and gloss of the finish, will be different between the wood with the old finish and those pieces that are refinished.

The only way to lighten wood is to bleach it. (Staining will only change the color of the wood or darken it.) Bleaching will put those pieces forever out of sync with the rest of the wood in the car.

So, with this understanding, the question disappears.
Refinish all of the wood trim or accept the fact that there will be differences between those pieces refinished properly and those not refinished.

An improved finishing process

As an improvement to “standard refinishing” we have developed a technique to increase the life expectancy of refinished veneered parts. This involves a number of proprietary steps and materials that, when combined in the proper way, re-establishes the glue bond of the veneer to the substrate and solidifies the veneer itself. These reinforcing steps create a more stable piece for the new finish and extend the life of the new finish.

What owners are surprised to learn is that the causes for many types of cracks in the top coat originate at the wood level and work their way up to the finish. The small fissure cracks that commonly populate older dash and console fascias have their origin at the veneer/substrate glue line. Our new process minimizes any wood movement thus limiting this telegraphing effect.

The benefits of this procedure go way beyond the typical refinishing process, to improve the longevity of refinished wood.


 

The Workflow

 

Evaluate
Remove old finish
Remove old veneer to the substrate (when veneering)
Make any repairs to substrate
Clean
Sand
Prepare veneer (soften and flatten (when veneering)
Bookmatch veneer where necessary (when veneering)
Veneer parts with waterproof adhesive under vacuum pressure and heat (when
veneering)
Clean and sand
Paint and stain as per factory
Apply epoxy and vacuum (when refinishing only)
Sand
Apply thin primer for bonding
Apply a series of top coats (a modern resin from Europe that we have mixed with
a flex agent and strong ultra-violet filers. This topcoat produces unsurpassed depth and clarity.)
Block and spray final coats
The pieces are then baked in hot boxes for a few days to fully cure the resin. Then the pieces are blocked level, smoothed with ultra fine paper and polished
through various compounds – yielding interior trim of great depth and beauty.

William Rau